drainage manual a water resources technical publication a guide to integrating plant soil and wat

drainage manual a water resources technical publication a guide to integrating plant soil and wat

Quick step guide Quick step guide Download the document El Primero 21 movement - User Manual El Primero 21 movement - User Manual Download the document El Primero movement - User Manual El Primero movement - User Manual Download the document Elite movement - User Manual Elite movement - User Manual Download the document Footer Stay in touch Subscribe newsletter Email address Field is required. Before using, the camera, make thorough study of the handling rules and operation procedure of the camera. Due to ever-advancing development of the camera construction, there may occur minor differences between the text of Manual and the construction of your camera. To make the operating of the photocell reliable and to increase its service, do not subject the photocell to the exposure of the direct sunlight. Screw out or screw in INDUSTAR-50-2 lens only by thread rolling of depth of field scale ring, and HELIOS-44-2 lens -- by thread rolling of focusing ring. Do not touch the mirror surface with fingers, because this may damage its coating. Do not rotate the shutter release button for no reason, while releasing the shutter, to avoid disengagement of the shutter cocking mechanism. Always wind the shutter as far as it goes to avoid blank exposures. ZENIT-E is a single-lens reflex camera, fitted with a built-in and uncoupled exposure meter and with a reflex mirror of instant return type. The instant return mirror permits continuous viewing of the object to be photographed, except for the moment of exposure. The built-in exposure meter is especially important for shooting on a colour film. Thanks to its specifications, the ZENIT-E camera can be used for most various amateur shooting and a number of special shootings. The ZENIT-E camera can be used with commercially available interchangeable lenses with focal length from 37 to 1000 mm. The design of the reflex viewfinder (groundglass focusing) allows to apply extension rings, to make with their help reproduction works.

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• drainage manual a water resources technical publication a guide to integrating plant soil and wat.

It allows to photograph small objects with large magnification (macrophotography) and to photograph with the help of microscope (microphotography). Using the ZENIT-E camera you can shoot close-ups or at long distances. Instant return mirror, built-in exposure meter, shutter setting lever, hinged back cover of the camera, small dimensions and light weight -- all these are important advantages of the ZENIT-E camera.To load the camera: See that the film be placed correctly between the film channel slides. As the lever turns, the film moves by one shot. To transport nonexposed film to the film gate, cock the shutter three times pressing the release button after each cocking. Note. While cocking the shutter, see if the film rewind knob rotates. Set the exposure counter when the shutter is cocked. The film sensitivity scale has two dots marked under figure 32: the left-hand one corresponds to film speed of 25 GOST-ASA units and the right-hand one -- to 32 GOST-ASA units. Figures of the film sensitivity scale are seen in the windows of the diaphragm scale of the calculator, which has setting indexes. To set the film speed (for example 65 units of GOST-ASA) turn the diaphragm scale until the setting index is aligned with scale division 65. The same procedure should be followed in setting sensitivity, if the film is marked in DIN grades.Turning the exposure time scale of the calculator to the right or to the left coincide the centre of the calculator pointer with the exposure meter pointer. In this case the scribes of the exposure time scale and the diaphragm scale should coincide. With the pointers matched the designations on scales allow to set a number of combinations of exposure times and diaphragms for the definite illumination and the film sensitivity. Any of these combinations enables to obtain a negative of normal density. Figures on the diaphragm scale show the relative aperture values.

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Figures from 500 to 2 on the exposure time scale show values of the exposure times in fractions of a second and from 1 to 30 show whole seconds. Black figures on the exposure time scale of the calculator correspond to figures of the exposure time dial scale. The exposure time and the appropriate diaphragm chosen depending on conditions of photographing should be correspondingly set on the camera and on the lens.For setting the diaphragm rotate the ring until you hear a slight click. This means that the ring is fixed. The diaphragm of the INDUSTAR-50-2 lens is set only after the focusing of the lens is done.For this purpose HELIOS-44-2 diaphragm ring should be turned counter-clockwise as far as it goes. Aiming the lens at an object being photographed and observing through the viewfinder eyepiece turn the lens focusing ring until sharp image appears on the frosted glass. After focusing HELIOS-44-2 lens is stopped down by turning the diaphragm ring clockwise as far as it will go. In cases when you want to photograph a number of objects disposed at different distances use the depth of field scale. The depth of field scale presents divisions which are symmetrically arranged on both sides of the index and correspond to diaphragm values. After the camera is focused you can read limits of the depth of field for a chosen diaphragm which are disposed against equivalent divisions of the depth of field scale on both sides of the index on the distance scale. For photographing in conditions of poor illumination you should use flash bulbs and electronic flashes. For this aim the ZENIT-E camera is fitted with a special device, which synchronizes the bulb flash moment with the shutter operating time.Cock the shutter, wind the self-timer mechanism turning the self-timer setting lever down as far as it will go. Set exposure, choose a frame, focus the lens. Press the self-timer release button and stand in position to be photographed. The shutter operates in no less than 9 s.

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after pressing the button.The procedure is the following: 1. Press the film rewind knob and rotate it contrary to the direction shown by the indicating pointer. 2. Disengage the shutter mechanism. For this aim press the film rewind release button and, holding it in this position, rotate the film rewind knob in the direction, shown by the indicating pointer, until you feel by the applied force that the end of the film left the spring of the take-up spool.Interchangeable lenses are mounted on the camera in the same way as the main lenses by means of M42x1 thread. When using the interchangeable TAIR-3 lens, the left edge of the image field on the negative may be cut off. The ZENIT-E camera does not-allow to use the exposure meter system when photographing with the MTO-500 and MTO-1000 interchangeable lenses, as the outer mount of these lenses shades the photocell.While copying, it is possible to use the extension rings which are mounted between the camera body and the lens. In this case it is possible to use one ring or a combination of some rings. Reproduction scale depends on the length and number of used rings. This can be visually seen by the reproductions of a postage stamp.Keep the camera in a closed carrying case. In such cases the cap should be put on the lens while the shutter and the self-timer are released. Never remove the lens from the camera, unless you need it, to prevent dust and dirt from getting on the surface of optical parts. Clean the optical coated lens surfaces only from outside with a clean soft piece of fabric or cotton. Fabric or cotton can be slightly moistened with rectified alcohol, ether (petroleum or sulfuric) or, if these means are absent, with toilet eau-de-Cologne. As the camera is a complex optical mechanical device, any repair of the camera and its adjustment should be performed only by a highly qualified specialist. It was also sold as the Revueflex EM This page is copyright by. M. Butkus, NJ.

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This will help me to continue to host this site, buy new manuals, and pay their Use the above address for a Though this camera boasts many advanced features over its predecessors, the Zenith E and its earlier meterless version the Zenith B the basic instructions may be applied equally well to all models. Where any differences occur between models these have been noted, and inset illustrations provided, if necessary, in the appropriate section of the book. Though many hints and tips towards better photography have been included, this handbook should in no way be thought of as a comprehensive guide to general photographic techniques. There are numerous useful books of this type available and if you are just taking your first shaky steps in photography it would certainly benefit you to consult your local library or bookshop. Do remember, though, that it is a precision-built optical instrument and should therefore be handled carefully and protected from violent shocks, damp, dust and sand and sudden changes of temperature. Take care of your camera and it will give you years of reliable service and brilliant pictures. The wide range of accessories available, particularly those from the USSR, which offer outstanding value-for-money, enable you to cope with almost any photographic situation. You can build up as complete a system as you need at your own pace. To get the best possible results from your Zenith study this book thoroughly to make sure that you are familiar with the essential features of the camera before you start taking pictures. Refer back to the book any time there is something you are not sure of. Many operational features of this camera are unique and probably somewhat different from other cameras you may have owned. It is therefore strongly recommended that after carefully reading the instructions you shoot a 'test' roll of film, have this film processed, and examine the pictures before exposing additional rolls.

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This test roll will verify that you are using your new camera correctly and allow you to make any necessary changes in camera operation. Additionally, it will confirm that all the camera controls are functioning perfectly. Linked to self-timer giving approximately 7 seconds delay. If outdoors look for a shady area or shield the camera from direct sunlight with your body or coat. The Sprocket should rotate in time with the lever action and not free-wheel. Firm pressure only required on the Zenith EM as the back has a self-locking catch. On the Zenith B the Rewind Knob is ready to hand.If the Rewind Knob turns it shows that the film is correctly loaded and moving properly through the camera. If it doesn't turn, and you have taken up the slack as described in step 7, then the film may not be securely attached to the Take-up spool or properly engaged by the Sprocket Wheels. When the lever stops during the second stroke, you are assured that the camera's film, shutter and frame-counter are all ready for exposure. Failure to wind the Transport Lever fully may result in a 'blank' exposure. The counter tells you how many frames (pictures) you have taken and when it reaches 12, 20 or 36 (depending on film in use), you will need to rewind the film into its cassette and put in a new film. Color film especially should not be left in the camera for long periods and for the best results should be processed as soon as possible after exposure. Incidentally do carry a spare film - nothing is more annoying than to run e out of film just before the best shot turns up To set the reminder disc hold the rewind knob, then apply s finger or thumb pressure to the disc and turn it until the film speed or type lines up with the red mark.

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The first two of these are purely technical; the following sections, together with a little experience, will soon enable you to handle your Zenith with sufficient enough ease to leave you free to concentrate on the third aspect, composition, which is the artistic one. There are two methods of obtaining the total amount of exposure required for a film of certain sensitivity under certain conditions of lighting. First is by using the exposure tables supplied with the pack of film you buy -these of course only hold good under average subject and lighting conditions, but are usually a quite accurate guide and certainly more than adequate to begin with. A better and far more accurate method (especially important with color slide films, as the slide is your final result) is to measure the brightness of a scene by means of an exposure meter. Turn the Aperture Indicator Dial until the speed number for your film shows against the index mark in the appropriate window. Should your film be rated at an intermediate speed, simply position the ASA or DIN index mark between the next smaller and larger number (for example for a 64 or 80 ASA film set the ASA index mark between 50 and 100, for a 23 DIN film set the DIN index mark between 22 and 25). On some E and EM With subjects of average contrast (e.g. scenes lit from the front, or at an angle from the side, where there are no heavy shadows and dark and bright areas are fairly balanced) the right amount of exposure is indicated automatically. However, to obtain the best results with subjects of widely varying brightness range it is wise to take a few precautions. Set the appropriate exposure combination found Sometimes a close-up reading is not possible: if this is the case aim the exposure meter at an alternative subject of average contrast under the same lighting (the back of one's hand is a good example or ideally a sheet of neutral grey card). Again.

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use an appropriate combination from this reading on the camera and lens controls. Inadvertent tilting of the camera, into the sky for example when taking landscape views, can falsify the reading and in this case lead to under-exposure. It is best to aim the meter downwards slightly when taking landscapes and similar outdoor pictures to avoid adverse influence on the reading from the bright light of the sky. A straightforward average brightness reading under conditions of uniform frontal or side angled lighting yields slides of good color saturation which correspond most closely to the natural color impression. If the needle moves when you block the meter cell the exposure meter is able to function in the existing light - remove your hand and determine exposure in the normal way. However, if no needle movement occurs when you place your hand in front of the meter cell the existing light is insufficient and the exposure meter cannot be used. In this event, either a time exposure or use of a flash gun is recommended. However, the following points must be observed to avoid mechanical damage: (a) Always lift the Shutter Speed Dial before turning it to another speed and lower it fully before shooting; (b) Always turn the Shutter Speed Dial to one of the marked speeds (30. 60, etc. that indicate fractions of a second, or B. that indicates a hand controlled time exposure) - NEVER to a position between marked speeds; and finally (c) DO NOT turn the Shutter Speed Dial the short distance between B and 500. To take a time exposure with your Zenith set. At this setting the Shutter will remain open. A sturdy tripod To reduce the risk of vibration it is recommended that a piece of black card (or even one's hat) be held in front of the lens as the Release Button is pressed and turned -the lens is then uncovered for the required time (using a stopwatch or slow count) and then recovered to end the exposure while the Release Button is returned to its normal position.

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Obviously this procedure only applies to long exposures of several seconds. This will ensure correct operation of shutter and exposure counter in subsequent pictures. If there is a safety locking nut on the accessory, turn the main screw up to three revolutions only, then hold it in position and lock into place with the safety nut. Thereafter apertures are changed manually by moving the Aperture Ring into any of its click stop' positions.After focusing turn the Pre-set Ring as far as it will go in a clockwise direction (as seen from top or back of camera) - this closes the lens down to the pre-selected aperture in readiness for picture taking. With practice you do not even have to look at the lens after initially setting the aperture required - with the camera held to the eye, simply turn the Pre-set Ring fully anti-clockwise for wide aperture viewing and focusing, then turn it fully clockwise after focusing to take your picture, assured that the aperture will be closed down to its predetermined setting. You can even change apertures without taking the camera from your eye; first set the lens to full aperture, then turn Diaphragm Setting Ring each click to the left selects one larger aperture, each click to the right selects one smaller aperture. Remember of course to close down to the newly selected aperture with the Pre-set Ring as previously described. You must now take the camera away from your However, you will often need to select a particular shutter speed or aperture to suit your subject so how do you choose.These settings are so designed that altering from one figure to another on either scale, will double or halve the amount of light reaching the film. Remember though that all combinations of shutter speed and aperture are a compromise. There is really no 'correct' exposure for any subject.

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There's a built-in safety margin of course, in common with many other modern single lens reflex cameras, the viewfinder showing an overall area some what smaller than the total film area. This ensures that everything you see in the viewfinder appears in the finished picture despite the fact that slide mounts and masks in printing equipment actually cover part of the film's image. The Zenith EM camera has in addition in the center of its screen, two aids for speedier critical focusing, a microprism spot which is composed of literally hundreds of tiny prisms that distort and accentuate an out-of-focus image. Simply focus the lens until you obtain a single undistorted image at the center and you are at the point of sharpest focus. This microprism works well for the majority of subjects and conditions but for subjects lacking in contrast or color the fine ground-glass collar around the central spot is probably more helpful - it's quite handy when using long telephoto and wide angle lenses too. (Aim your camera at this instruction book from about 2 feet away and you'll see how these focusing aids work). Generally there's no need to check distance, it's almost always easier to use the viewfinder; the only time it becomes necessary is when taking flash pictures (see p. 26) or when 'depth -of-field' is important. Remember - this is needed only when using infra-red films which are sensitive to light rays which focus at a slightly different plane than ordinary light rays. Spectacle wearers may find this helpful for critical work. If difficulty is experienced in obtaining either of these accessories we recommend you contact Visual Aids, East Street, Bromley, Kent, BR1 1QX. This 'range' of extra sharpness is called 'depth-of-field' and varies with different lenses; it's greatest with wide-angle lenses, and least with telephoto lenses.

However, the aesthetic quality of a picture can often be improved by having the principal subject in sharp focus while other objects in the scene are soft and out-of-focus.This closes the aperture down to its pre-set value and enables you to get an idea (despite the dimness) of what will or will not be sharp - the final photograph will be at least as sharp if not sharper than the viewfinder image. With the Hellos and industar 50 lenses, follow the previous instructions regarding aperture operation and you'll see that even though they lack the automatic aperture closing feature, depth-of-field can still be previewed prior to taking the picture. Now for some practical examples The remedy obtain the maximum depth-of-field required with the minimum of 'stopping-down' (decreasing aperture size).The distance then found to be aligning with the near limit of depth-of-field for the aperture required will be the 'hyperfocal distance'.Always press the Shutter Release Button downwards smoothly and firmly - NEVER jab at it (On the Zenith EM make sure you do not accidentally restrict movement of the Shutter Speed Dial while depressing the Release Button) If lighting conditions have not changed it is only necessary to frame the subject, focus and fire the shutter. If taking a photograph in a slightly different direction or if the sun clouds over, take a further meter reading or consult film exposure tables and make any adjustments to camera and lens controls that might become necessary before firing the shutter. When this registers a figure indicating that the entire length of film has been exposed, or if the Film Transport Lever cannot be turned, it is time to rewind the film into its cassette ready for processing. DO NOT try to get an extra exposure if the Transport Lever is wound forcibly the film may be damaged and disengage from the cassette making it impossible to rewind.

This is simply a precautionary measure to prevent any portion of the last frame being exposed to light, since the Rewind Release has the effect of firing the shutter even if, as sometimes happens, the Transport Lever is only partly wound when the end of the film has been reached. Zenith E and B models have a Rewind Button (see below) which must be pressed and held down firmly during the entire rewinding operation. The Zenith EM has a locking device which permits rewinding without constant application of pressure. Make sure the Ring is turned until no further movement is possible and you'll then be able to rewind the whole film quite freely. While resistance is felt you are rewinding the film back into the cassette (the knob will turn freely without resistance when the film has been fully rewound). On Zenith EM and E models it is spring-loaded and recessed within the exposure meter controls and must there fore be raised first into rewind position by gently pressing against the top of the knob and turning it anti-clockwise at the same time. There are pros and cons for each type - if you think you will only be taking occasional flash pictures (at party times etc) then a bulb or cube gun is best.For the more serious photographer an electronic gun is the best bet.More advanced model seven boast a built-in mini-computer which automatically regulates the duration of the flash according to subject distance for perfect exposure. We recommend you to consult your Zenith camera dealer for advice on the best type of gun to suit your needs-here we can only give guidance on the procedure and technique of flash photography Obviously the type of calculator dial or scale will vary with each make of gun, so consult the instruction book supplied with your unit, or your dealer for exact information the general operating rule however is... Remember that with the Hellos 44 and Industar 50 lenses the aperture must be closed down manually after focusing.

However, there will be no loss of film should this happen. Here is how to use it... The actual time of exposure will vary from camera to camera, so we suggest you determine the time for your particular camera, as it may well come in handy to know when taking pictures in dimly lit conditions. You are also able to choose from literally hundreds of lenses made both by other camera manufacturers and independent lens makers. To attach a lens simply screw it firmly into the camera's mount in a clockwise direction; when it stops, give it a slight extra twist to ensure that it is securely attached. This ensures that you will be able to frame and focus easily. When removing or storing lenses, protect them from accidental damage by placing them face down and if possible, attaching a rear lens cap (again obtainable from your dealer but usually included with accessory lenses). This latter point is particularly important with lenses having an automatic aperture mechanism since you should always avoid putting undue pressure on the metal control pin at the rear. Lenses designed specifically for use with more advanced methods of electrically or mechanically coupled automatic systems, which have extra keying levers on the mounting flange, should not be used (see illustration). If you want the longest service and best performance, always treat your camera and accessories as you would any precision instrument - with care and respect. Your camera should be kept in its carrying case whenever possible. It wilt help protect your camera and lens from dust, dirt, moisture and light knocks against hard surfaces the natural enemies of all cameras. Remember too, that on the beach sand and sea-spray somehow seem to get everywhere; even a closed carrying case needs extra protection (a large polythene bag is quite good ). Exterior metal parts can be cleaned with a soft clean cloth moistened with ether or absolute alcohol.

NEVER touch the lens or mirror surfaces with the hands - fingerprints diminish optical efficiency and due to natural skin acidity may in time damage the delicate optical coating of the lens and surface silvering of the mirror - only an air blower (bulb type or similar) should be used for removal of dust. Any stubborn traces of dirt or condensation left on the lens after this can be removed by lightly wiping over the surface with a clean soft piece of lint-free fabric or cotton (or a pad of surgical cotton-wool on the end of a matchstick) that has been dampened with absolute alcohol, ether or ether spirit mixture; any smears can be removed with a dry soft cloth. NO ATTEMPT should be made to clean the mirror or viewing screen by wet means -air cleaning only is allowed and this is usually best left to a specialist. Heat is bad for the film and camera lubricants and the lens can act as a burning-glass causing damage to the camera s interior. Also prolonged exposure to intense sunlight can adversely affect the Selenium Cell.Do not store in humid conditions unless a suitable drying agent, such as silica gel in a sealed container, is placed alongside it. Like any precision instrument, your camera's controls must Should you at anytime experience any apparent malfunction with your camera check the following handy troubleshooting chart. Chances are you will be able to solve your own problem on the spot. It will stop mid-way during the second stroke assuring you that shutter is completely wound. Always ensure Transport Lever is fully wound before setting Self Timer Lever. NEVER attempt to mend it yourself-you could turn a minor adjustment into an expensive repair. There are so many factors involved that probably thousands of books have been written on this aspect alone however here are some basic picture-taking tips that will help you take better pictures starting right from your very first roll of film...

Remember that you can safely compose direct in the viewfinder, you see what the lens sees (in fact there'll be a little more actual film image as previously mentioned due to the viewfinder's built-in safety margin). With some subjects (e.g. sporting events, wildlife, distant objects of all kinds) you're unable, or it's inconvenient, to get in close - here a telephoto lens scores as it 'compresses'' space making distant objects appear closer. Taking in less of the field of view it also teaches you to be selective in choice of subject and viewpoint. Aim to achieve balance more than symmetry. Have objects of uneven size balancing each other rather than a geometric arrangement of equal sized objects. Choose surroundings and backgrounds carefully those that complement your subject rather than take interest away from it. A person standing in front of a fussy background such as a building (unless it is 'thrown out of focus') is seldom as attractive as a close-up of the same person against a background of trees or clear sky. Pastel shades with a tiny, brightly-colored accent can be more effective than masses of strong color. The camera is not as selective as the eye, which is why a bed of mixed f lowers is rarely a good subject for color film. A picture of distant scenery will often be improved just by a bush, a rustic gate or trees in the foreground. People too, add life and impact to all kinds of outdoor photography - a photograph of a winding country lane is good.Kneel down, so that your camera is at eye-level with the child (instead of aiming down). The result, again, will be a much more interesting, natural-looking photograph. Taking pictures of a group of people. See if there are stairs nearby so you can shoot from a higher angle. Each person in the group will be more visible than if you shot them at eye level. Always use a wide-angle lens for best results when you want to take in a broader field of view than is possible with your standard lens.