canon speedlite 580ex pdf manual

canon speedlite 580ex pdf manual

Other features include a metal hot shoe with an improved locking mechanism for added durability, an external metering sensor for non-TTL automatic flash exposure control and a PC Terminal for use with non-dedicated slave triggers. Leave a Comment Cancel reply Save my name, email, and website in this browser for the next time I comment. This page requires Javascript. Modify your browser's settings to allow Javascript to execute. See your browser's documentation for specific instructions. To install your download click on the name of the downloaded file.Recommended Software File Name Date File Size Optional Software File Name Date File Size Recommended Manual(s) File Name Date File Size Optional Manual(s) File Name Date File Size This Limited Warranty is only effective upon presentation of this warranty card and proof of purchase. Equipment covered by this Warranty will be repaired in the United States, WITHOUT CHARGE, by our Service Centers and Authorized Service Facilities. When returning equipment for warranty service, the shipping charges must be prepaid and the equipment should be shipped in its original carton or box, or an equivalent, properly packed to withstand the hazards of shipment and be fully insured. A bill of sale, copy of this warranty card or other proof of purchase should be enclosed, as well as a description of the problem, film samples, etc. Repairs will be made and the equipment will be return shipped at NO CHARGE. This warranty covers all defects encountered in normal use of the equipment, and does not apply in the following cases: List of international service facilities included with equipment.List of participating international service facilities included with equipment.This warranty is given by Canon U.S.A., Inc., with respect to equipment purchased in the United States.Scroll down to easily select items to add to your shopping cart for a faster, easier checkout. Visit the Canon Online Store.

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Upon completion of the download, the PDF file opens automatically. You may download and use the Content solely for your personal, non-commercial use and at your own risks. Canon shall not be held liable for any damages whatsoever in connection with the Content, (including, without limitation, indirect, consequential, exemplary or incidental damages). You shall also not (and shall not let others) reproduce, modify, reformat or create derivative works from the Content, in whole or in part. SpeedLite 580EX Camera Flash pdf manual download. Scroll down to easily select items to add to your shopping cart for a faster, easier checkout. Visit the Canon Online Store The Canon Speedlite 580EX II is an EOS-dedicated, high-output flash unit automatically compatible with E-TTL II, E-TTL, and TTL autoflash. It can serve as an on-camera flash as well as a master unit or a slave unit in a wireless, multiple-Speedlite system. New posts will not be retrieved. There may be an issue with the Instagram access token that you are using. Your server might also be unable to connect to Instagram at this time. Error: API requests are being delayed for this account. New posts will not be retrieved. There may be an issue with the Instagram Access Token that you are using. Your server might also be unable to connect to Instagram at this time. Error: No posts found. Make sure this account has posts available on instagram.com. For most of us, the question that matters far above all others is - how does the 580EX coupled with an E-TTL II Digital SLR body perform? As in how does it handle exposure. I'm sure I didn't encounter every possible flash situation, but from my observations, the 580EX is not significantly better than the 550EX for exposure control. In some situations, my 580EX gave me a slightly better result than the 550EX. But, more frequently the two gave me similar performance.The Canon Speedlite 550EX Flash exposes very well.

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What is very important is that the person behind the viewfinder knows how Canon's E-TTL works. I included a link to an excellent article at the end of this review. It will launch your E-TTL knowledge. The photographer's knowledge will make a much more dramatic difference in end results than the selection of a 580EX instead of a 550EX.I have upgraded all of my While the Canon 550EX It is a more modern design - and looks better (if that is important to you). It is easier to grasp and hold (although most of the time it is simply mounted for use). The vertical base of the 580EX is narrower than the 550EX.Opening the battery door is more of a chore than it should be,The 580EX shows the ready light much faster than the 550EX. Recycle time is also reduced. Canon lists.1 to 6 seconds as the time to ready depending on flash power used. The 580EX also goes into sleep mode automatically after 90 seconds of no useA touch of the shutter button brings the 580 back to life.The field of view crop factor is included in this spec. This means that the Use it for creating a catchlight (a bright sparkle) in your subject's eyes when Rotation is up to 180 degrees in both directions. The single button release is a really nice enhancement.It is much easier and faster to change settings using the control dial and set button. The power on switch has only one setting and is easier to use. A high speed flash synch button makes this setting easer to change.Using the control dial, it is now easier and faster to set manual flash power output. If your subject distance is consistent (formal portraits for example), The 580EX's AF-Assist Beam is aligned with the focus points on all of Canon's EOS bodiesYou get enhanced AF performance on all EOS bodies in (or coming to) your collection.The Canon 420EX Flash can be slaved as well. Canon Speedlites use light - not RF - for simple but useful wireless flash communications.The 580EX's maximum guide number is 58 (105mm, ISO 100 in meters) vs.

Improved electronics should account for some additional battery life as well. I honestly can't say I have tested this feature as the Canon 580EX is rated for 100-700 shots depending on power use while using Alkaline batteries.The 580EX will add a great feature to your setup.This won't be a differentiating factor for anyone - but it is a nice change.Firmware can be downloaded from the support area of Canon's web site.It will work until you are able to get a properly molded Omni-Bounce.It delivers slightly improved performance in a much improved package. As always, you must determine if the new and improved features make the 580EX worth the price to you.Thus, I depend solely on the commissions received from you using the links on this site to make any purchase. I am grateful for your support! - Bryan You expect to get what you ordered, and you want to pay a low price for it. The retailers I recommend below are the ones I trust for my purchases. Get your Canon Speedlite 580EX Flash now from: Can you help right now? Used: GoodNo additional accessories are included. KEH Camera's EXCELLENT grade rates 80 to 89 percent of original condition. Shows moderate wear for the age of the item, with the possibility of small dings or blemishes.Please try again.Please try again.Please choose a different delivery location.In order to navigate out of this carousel please use your heading shortcut key to navigate to the next or previous heading. In order to navigate out of this carousel please use your heading shortcut key to navigate to the next or previous heading. Register a free business account Please try your search again later.To calculate the overall star rating and percentage breakdown by star, we don’t use a simple average. Instead, our system considers things like how recent a review is and if the reviewer bought the item on Amazon. It also analyzes reviews to verify trustworthiness. Please try again later. Bruno Freitas 5.0 out of 5 stars Here is what i liked about it so far.

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Just about what the manual says. 100-300, depending on how much light power you will be demanding from it. 4. I am still about to find more good stuff about it. As for the size. As for the catchligt. The CONS: 1. It's Expensive. A Big Drawback for some. 2. The Battery door compartment, could be better on a piece of equipment like this. Like said before. It is what you pay for. The best on it's category. (this go for all Canon Lover's);)Con: - Have to repeat it like other reviwers: battery door is a joke. Need to be very careful with it. - AWB becomes much warmer when bounces. Manual bounce fixes the problem. The white panel doesn't help much. This is quite unacceptible for a flash this expensive. I consulted experts on the canon forum, it seems to be a common problem. Now I only flash straight. Be prepared to use manual mode if you bounce if you don't want your picture to look awfully warm. - Why does it need the push button to turn the flash head. Ok, the new 580EX II turns 360 degrees, an improvement. But not by much. - Why not continuous bounce angles? 580EX still does the same thing as 420EZ from 20 years ago. About time to progress a bit here?This one held really well and never missed an exposure in an Indian wedding. If you didnt know, a typical Indian wedding lasts for days, but this was an abbreviated one, and was put to work for a full 24 hours. Not one bad exposure. Specifically, the best part about this flash is that you can hardly see that a flash was used. A little difficult when working on Aperture priority as the camera tries to expose the overall image and not just the subject, but set it to high speed sync and fire away. In case you need to adjust the image, Canon raw format is very dynamic to take care of that. A little work around, but perfectly acceptable to me. Bouncing this lens on the ceiling takes the pictures one notch higher in IQ.

Most ceilings are a shade of yellow, so the very mild yellowish pitch (almost invisible) actually becomes richer and acceptably warmer colors showing healthy and happy people, not a rabbit-looking-at-the-headlights look. Bouncing also avoids harsh shadows and is just a clear winner. The catch light panel is quite helpful, and does a fantastic job of producing a light gradient when the subject is up close. Highly recommend using that feature. Considering buying one more to along with the transmitter to work in tandem wireless mode, but just started saving pennies for that. Good buy, take a look at the Mark II version before you swipe your visa card for this.In fact, the 580 is a worthwhile upgrade. I like the new dial on the back for adjusting exposure compensation, etc.I can machine gun my 1Ds2 and this flash keeps up. The 550 could not. It is small enough not to overwhelm my little Rebel too. I did note that there is some vignetting at 24mm with a direct flash unless I drop the wide lens screen. The manual says ths will not happen but it does. Not a big deal since I use a Gary Fong diffuser or bounce flash almost always.Like the other reviews, the battery door is flimsy. However, be prepared to read the manual on the inner workings of this flash. This flash has many features at a cost of being somewhat complicated to use-- outside of fully automatic mode. I would highly recommend this flash if you are a serious professional photographer. It has a nice bounce flash and illuminates the subject nicely, but it has a complex array of features. You will need to carry the manual to remember how to program this flash. I suspect most people will use a very limited subset of all the options available with this flash. For this reason, I believe this flash is overkill for most people. Loaded with 4 AA batteries, the flash makes the camera fairly heavy.

The bounce flash and rotating head feature are nice, but moving the flash head requires depressing a button with one hand while holding the camera with your other hand. I found this to be awkward. I highly suggest doing a Google search on the flash's manual and reading it thoroughly before purchasing. You'll see the LCD panel to be very complex. If you're not a manual reader, this flash could prove to be a challenge ourside of automatic mode. If you need a powerful flash that takes outstanding pictures and has every function imaginable, this flash might be for you.In order to navigate out of this carousel please use your heading shortcut key to navigate to the next or previous heading. Discover everything Scribd has to offer, including books and audiobooks from major publishers. Start Free Trial Cancel anytime. Report this Document Download Now save Save Canon 580EX II Repair Manual For Later 100 (1) 100 found this document useful (1 vote) 5K views 97 pages Canon 580EX II Repair Manual Uploaded by rigorjaa Description: Full description save Save Canon 580EX II Repair Manual For Later 100 100 found this document useful, Mark this document as useful 0 0 found this document not useful, Mark this document as not useful Embed Share Print Download Now Jump to Page You are on page 1 of 97 Search inside document Browse Books Site Directory Site Language: English Change Language English Change Language.

ETTL is an automatically produced flash exposure value, and is the camera's 'guess' as to what the 'correct' flash exposure should be. It can act differently depending upon camera mode, but the key thing to know is that it changes depending upon such things as camera mode, subject value, and according to ETTL's algorithms (set of instructions to follow). It probably changes every time you go to take a picture. It may not be what you want or expect. This is why manual flash mode is valuable--you set it the way you want it, and everything remains constant from picture to picture, until you change something. Consistency is one of the big reasons to use manual flash. 2b. Just like the fact that there is no one, correct exposure for ambient, depending upon what you are trying to show in the picture, there is no one, correct flash exposure, and now you have two exposures to play with--ambient and flash. 2c. You can control how ETTL responds by using flash exposure compensation. In fast moving situations, it is impractical to use manual flash (although some people are so used to it they can respond very fast), so by testing and kind of 'knowing' how ETTL is likely to respond, one can just set compensation quickly, and on the fly (shoot a test exposure) to arrive at a workable exposure. Knowing how ETTL works and how different camera modes affect it also helps in anticipating ETTL response. You can get so good at it that your ETTL exposures can be quite accurate. Bottom line: You haven't been missing anything by not using manual flash mode, if you test and can accurately anticipate ETTL response. On the other hand, for static situations, you can't beat knowing every image is going to be the way you want it. We apologise for any inconvenience caused. In this article, we guide you through the steps for setting up your new Speedlite flash to shoot in the E-TTL Auto flash mode.

You will learn some basic concepts and about the role of each Speedlite function along the way—which will certainly help you get the hang of external flash photography. Other cameras and Speedlite models might feature different menu screens and operating procedures, so please refer to the relevant user manuals for more details. Once fully inserted, slide the mounting foot lock lever to lock it into place. Switch on the power supply of the camera, followed by that of the flash. Turn off the power of the flash before you attach or detach it from the hot shoe. Power on the camera, then power on the flash. To detach the flash from the hot shoe, slide the lock lever in the reverse direction while pressing the lock release button. Do not use a mixture of new and old batteries, different brands, or alkaline and lithium batteries. Not only will that shorten the life of the batteries, it may also result in problems such as battery leakage. Carrying out a reset for every new shooting session helps to avoid accidentally using settings from your previous shoot. In this mode, the flash is fired automatically, and the flash output metering is automatically determined by the camera. This is ideal for when you want to take a quick picture using the exposure that the camera’s metering system decides. You can use it when you need more control over flash output, as is necessary for professional-level flash photography. One example is when you want to make use of multiple flash units to create shadow effects. This is different from the flash exposure compensation function present in the E-TTL flash mode (see Step 8). Numbers to the right result in stronger light from the flash.The Speedlite 430EX III-RT and Speedlite 600EX II-RT are additionally equipped with an Individual group control (Gr) mode, which lets you configure settings for multiple flashes.

The steps are the same as those for setting E-TTL and the Manual flash mode, and they can be performed on either the camera or the flash unit. Flash photography can be used in any shooting mode. Select Shutter-priority AE when you wish to capture moving subjects without motion blur, or make use of motion bur to express movement. Select Aperture-priority AE if you wish to control the depth of field to make use of the bokeh effect, or to carry out deep focusing. Make a choice based on your intent. However, flash compensation (see Step 8) is not possible in the Full Auto and scene modes. Thus, Program AE, Aperture-priority AE and Shutter-priority AE are easier to use if you want more control over your photo. On the other hand, the Manual Exposure mode is recommended when manual flash mode is chosen. Determine settings such as aperture, shutter speed and ISO speed in accordance with the intent of the shot, and you can adjust the flash output manually based on these conditions. Use high-speed sync when the desired shutter speed is higher than the maximum speed the flash is able to synchronize. Consider using first-curtain sync or second-curtain sync for long exposure shots. Select the mode that suits your intent. Adjust it if your photo turns out darker than expected, or when the chosen shutter speed is slower than intended. You can do so by pressing the “ISO” button on your camera to display the ISO speed settings menu. A higher ISO speed increases the image sensor's sensitivity to light, and enables weak diffuse light from the flash that is undetectable at a low ISO speed to be captured and reflected in the photo. You get a brighter image as a result. A higher ISO speed also helps to prevent camera shake and motion blur during both normal and flash photography. However, it can be difficult to gauge how the exposure will turn out following a change in the ISO speed, so you should ideally take test shots whenever you change your ISO speed setting.

In such a situation, exposure compensation can be applied to adjust the brightness of the background, especially if it is outside the range of the flash. In mid- and high-spec cameras, the amount of compensation can be set by turning the Quick Control Dial while half-pressing the shutter button. For camera models without the Quick Control Dial, hold down the exposure compensation button and turn the Main Dial to adjust the exposure compensation. Turning the dial to the right increases brightness, while turning to the left makes the image darker. If your camera does not have a Quick Control Dial, hold down the exposure compensation button and turn the Main Dial to adjust the exposure compensation. This makes the background brighter, but the subject might still not be as bright as you desire. As long as the subject is still within the range of the flash, you can adjust the flash output to make your subject brighter. In the E-TTL mode, this can be done using flash exposure compensation, which tells the flash to give more or less flash output relative to the output determined by the camera. Only the flash output is affected, so there is no impact on background brightness. Select the item highlighted in yellow above. However, doing so will disable (grey out) the flash exposure compensation option on the camera, and the setting made on the flash will override the one made on the camera. To avoid confusion, we recommend that you stick with use the camera for this setting. For example, to get a softer lighting, you can carry out bounce flash photography by angling the flash towards a wall or ceiling. Find the angle that most suit your photographic intention. This gives you more control over the direction and intensity of the lighting, which is necessary for advanced flash photography.

The best way to improve your flash photography is through trial and error, so when a shot does not turn out right, alter your settings, such as the shooting mode, synchronization mode, and ISO speed, and try again. This is what makes digital cameras wonderful for flash photography—you can take as many test shots as you desire. Strap on that speedlight and follow me!! FLash photography is an awesome way to make a step change improvement to your photography. For me, flash photography was a technique that really improved my images almost instantly, whereas learning other aspects of photography yielded more incremental improvements. Flash is a great way to add drama to your images and really add a pop to them. It's also a lot of fun!! But where do you start. If the ambient light looks too dark, then slow the shutter or widen the aperture. If the subject looks too bright then drop the flash power. Any combinations of setting tweaks can lead to a different looking shot. Experiment and have fun with it. Step 1: Put your Camera in Manual Mode I find that when using flash the camera can often get confused with the exposure and give you a result that you didn't really want. You are also far more in control of the situation in manual mode and can tweak the Aperture, Shutter Speed and ISO easily to get the look you are going for and adjust for the conditions. With flash, you add a 4th element to the exposure triangle, flash power, that needs to be balanced with the other 3 to get the best possible image. You also need to ensure you balance your flash lighting with the ambient lighting. In manual mode, you have far more control over the overall shot and you will be able to be much more creative with your flash photography. Give it a go. You will find that with flash you are more in control in M and actually understand whats going on easier than when shooting in natural light. It sounds crazy, I know, but just try it.

If you are not used to shooting in manual mode then check this article out on mastering the cameras shooting modes. This is not as difficult as it first seems and I am confident you will soon get to grips with it. Select the shooting mode by using this dial on the top of your DSLR Step 2: Set your Aperture to f8 As a starting point, f8 is always a good aperture to select to begin with. It means you have a larger depth of field so you won't have to worry about getting your image sharp in most cases, leaving you to focus on the composition and lighting. You can always tweak the aperture when you know what kind of shot you are getting. Very often when using flash, a wide open aperture will overexpose your image because you are limited on shutter speed (see next tip for why this is the case). On a lot of cameras, this is the shutter speed which correlates to the flash sync speed, meaning using a faster shutter speed will result in a black band across the image where the light from the flash hasn't exposed correctly. To enable faster shutter speeds, you will need flash units that are capable of high-speed sync, but this is a subject on its own so is not covered in this article. For the time being, look to stay below the sync speed limit. Combined with the depth of field achieved with an aperture of f8, you shouldn't have too many issues with sharp images (don't forget good technique and quality glass play a part here too, as do other things). Step 4: Set your ISO to 200 ISO 200 is a good place to start. This will ensure you get a really clean image but will give you an extra stop of light to play with from ISO 100. The advantage of flash photography is you can get into much cleaner ISO ranges for your camera. This really helps give you a nice sharp image without a lot of noise and all modern cameras are excellent at these low ISO ranges. Even entry levels do really well here.

Its the really High ISO levels that set the professional full frames bodies apart from the entry level. You can negate that to some extent if you master flash. You are best to start with a lower power and increase from there if you need to. Step 6: Bounce Flash vs Off-Camera Flash As a starting point, using bounce flash will get the best results in the shortest amount of time. This is where you bounce your flash off of a large surface such as the ceiling or a large wall. White walls work best as darker walls will tend to swallow your flash power and also has the potential to create a colour cast on your image. By bouncing flash it's more simple to get a even light on your subject and you have more chance of avoiding flash photography pitfalls, some of which are discussed later in this article. Using bounce flash you can quickly light a subject with the convenience of the speedlight mounted in your hot shoe. The downsides to bounce flash is that it's quite difficult to create mood and directional light to create shadows and depth. This can make the images less dramatic as the effect is that of bringing up the ambient light in the room. Another difficulty with this method is that there isn't always a white ceiling or wall close by to bounce light off. The ceilings may be high or covered with beams. They could be painted a dark colour. The walls may be painted a dark colour. In these situations, you may choose to mount your flash off camera. Bounce flash is a great way to quickly and conveniently light a subject or group of subjects, but you will get fairly even lighting. Great for when you need to quickly capture those candid moments. With off-camera flash, it is easy to get more creative. You can easily change the angle of the light source relative to your subject and create an unlimited range of looks and moods which helps to give your images the wow factor.

Off camera flash gives you the opportunity to deliver more directional light and is not as daunting as it looks. Shot with 2 off camera speedlights, one hair light and a key light with Magmod Sphere modifier. Using flash can really get your creative juices flowing, in this image I blended ambient and flash lighting to light the subject and also expose correctly for the bright sunset. This is taken with one speedlight with a MagMod Sphere modifier to camera right. So your settings are dialled in, now what?? With these starting settings in place, compose and take your shot. Have a look at the exposure on the LCD screen, if it looks underexposed, you just do the things you would do in natural light.Using speedlights gives you a fourth option which is to increase flash power. You can do the opposite to this if your image is overexposed. It is worth having a reminder at this point that increased shutter speed to reduce the overall exposure is limited to the flash sync speed. Also, shutter speed has little effect on the flash and more on the overall ambient light. There are a few little bits it's worth knowing to help you get your perfect exposure more quickly. Check the surrounding ambient exposure of your image. Does this look ok or is it under or overexposed. If your ambient exposure looks about right but your subject is not, then alter the exposure with flash power changes. Check for any hotspots on the image, are these in the background or on the subject. Dial down your camera settings to reduce hot spots in the background, and dial down flash power for hot spots on your subject. As the distance from your flash to the subject increases, the flash power will reduce by the inverse square of the distance. Clear as mud I know but it is a useful concept to understand. Why is this important I hear you ask. Well, in relation to increasing flash power, you need to be aware of the distance to your subject as the light reaching the subject will be much less.